You are here: Hyderabad Yellow Pages > Articles & Guides

Salwar Kameez – Reach Extends From Kashmir to Kanyakumari

There are few things, which are a part and parcel of Indian psyche and whose reach spans the whole of the country plus the vast Indian Diaspora abroad. One among them is Salwar Kameez, which as on now is a rage among the female population, so much that it has left an indelible imprint in the annals of Indian history. With a fine tradition and a colourful past, salwar kameez has become a fabric, which has brought about a touch of class to Indian women. What makes it so and how the same has come about is an interesting tale.

History

The fabric has its origin in the 16^thcentury; its first patrons were the fair and well endowed women of the rugged land of Afghanistan. It was primarily, introduced by them to ward off the fierce dust storms that are a common sight in their nation. In addition to this, the fabric also presented them in a look which suited them to the hilt and nicely. Its journey across the frontiers of its land of origin has been a fascinating one. How the same came to India is something a classic one.

The Mughal dynasty ruled the roost in the Indian heartland during the 17^thand 18^thcenturies and their long reign brought about a total transformation of the Indian society. Some of their offerings were oppressive and repulsive, and at the same time some were truly gems, which have stuck on till date. Salwar Kameez, elegant attire was one such gem left behind by them. Those days it was confined to the Muslim women population. With the arrival of the Britishers in the late 18^thcentury the fabric saw a slow fade out and was relegated to the background.

Its sudden revival in the late 1950s and the early 1960s by the glamour brigade of Hindi filmdom spawned its rebirth again. Well-known glamour dolls of that era (very correctly described as a rollicking and fun era) Saira Banu, Sadhana. Nanda and Asha Parekh led the way and took it to every reach of India. Who can forget their prancing and romantic dialling with their soul mates in Hindi film after film of that golden era? Hindi movies as everyone knows are a chord, which binds the entire nation, and getting the attire famous in them transported its reach faster and much better. It was a revival, initially confined to Kashmir and Punjab it really took off in the early 1980s, spread to other parts of India and never looked back since then. Over the passage of years the attire has become more refined, richer and more sophisticated.

Today it looks on solid footing and portrays the Indian women in a manner, which is realistic and truly down-to-reality. When one talks of this, due credit should also give due to one of the country’s most famous fashion guru Mike Kripalani. In fact it has been said that he has been the man who took out the attire from the hidden closet and put it back where it rightfully belongs – spotlight and limelight. Displaying the same in his boutique stalls in the fashion capital of India – Mumbai – he really lured the Indian womenfolk to it like a magnet.

Mention must also be made of its entry into and success in the conservative state of Tamil Nadu. This state was a reluctant entrant into the world of Salwar Kameez, In the early stages, the garment found support among a chosen few and those were mostly from woman who had stepped out of Chennai and travelled to other parts of India. That was in 1991, eight years later the scene changed, the traditional and usual pavadi and thavani (blouse and half-sari) made a slow exit from the streets of Chennai and other parts of Tamil Nadu. Today that state has women wearing them even in hitherto untouchable rural bastion. This should be regarded as a sure-fire integrating factor that has knitted together the nation’s fabric.

The beauty of Indian womanhood comes out very well in this attire without in any way compromising on her modesty. It is what it should be- simple, neat, chic, classy, cool, smart and above all really beautiful. Indian women are known for their famed beauty and appeal the world over and this attire takes it a notch up and presents a complete set up perfectly.

What Makes the Attire Click?

This is an interesting question, one that really throws up endless answers. The thing is that it is termed as a fabric, which is an extremely comfortable wear, and protective too in the sense the same can be worn with ease in all seasons and all climates. It also projects the enhanced beauty of Indian woman in a much better light.

Salwar is a pyjama like trousers, which is drawn in a tight manner at the waist and the ankles. The hold of Salwar is firm but its spread is loose which allows for flexibility. The women folk wear a long and loose tunic known as Kameez over the Salwars. To complete the get-up, three straight metres of cloth called Dupatta is put across the shoulders in a rotund manner. There is another factor that has to be mentioned, on certain occasion’s women wear Churidar instead of Salwar, both are similar, but the Churidar is a tighter fitting at the hips, thighs and ankles.

During summer the attire is in the form of crisp and light cotton, which allows for free airflow to seep through, and also doesn’t allow for uneasiness and itchiness, a common occurrence during the season. On the other hand, during the winter month the attire is in the form of heavy and thick cloth so as to allow for protection from too-cool breeze flow.

Factors Responsible for its Phenomenal Success

The fabric caught the imagination and hold of women folk due to the qualities of elegance, comfort and easy wear. It is these qualities which makes it an ideal wear for women at just about every place, be it offices or marriage functions or family celebrations or birthday bash or just about any kind of serious work or entertainment bash. The grip and success has been so successful that it has penetrated the hitherto impregnable fortress of Northeast India whose women had shunned the other attires of India.

The attire is neither too loose nor too tight at the bottom and does not rise an inch above the ankles. The after-effects of this attire have been far-reaching and immense. To add a touch of glamour, the outfit can carry off in any colour and design and look exotic, the magic permeates through and through in all its vivacity and dazzle.

Women folk also find it much safer to wear than a figure-hugging saree and a low cut blouse. The popularity has spread so much that it has touched school level. It is not common to find schoolgirls breeze through in neatly pressed Salwar Kameez. It also makes two wheeler vehicles driving a comfortable one; the wearer can adjust herself onto the seat cushion with ease, and drive with contentment writ large on her face.

Every section of women folk have taken to the attire with an air of mutual liking and it was not much of a surprise when foreigners termed it as the national attire of Indian women folk.

Experimentation by designers of this outfit has further spread its reach and popularity. There are many different styles and patterns, materials, prints and methods, which are used with dexterity to carve out the most elegant of Salwar Kameez. The final product, if a well designed one makes for a classic wear. It looks superb, with its cut aided by a matching Dupatta or a waistcoat.

Styles of Salwar Kameez

Style makes an individual as they say and this outfit suits this adjective to the hilt. They make for bringing that new look and gleam to the attire and Salwar Kameez has a few up its sleeve:

• Lucknow is renowned for its famous Nawabi era, the remnants of the same is alive to this day. That age brought to fore embroidery in all its finery and charm leading to a product of great admiration. The styles Chikankari and zardosi were evolved during this era, chikankari is one in which most of the stitches are on the wrong side of the cloth. And when turned inside out, decorated with outlines, a shadow effect takes shape. On the other hand, Zardosi is embroidery, which is done with gold thread. Both these designs were patronised by the Mughals.
• Here comes Regular Salwar Kameez style. It highlights loose-fitting drawstring pants with gathers. It is folded neatly at the ankles. This kind of style has proved to be very popular, just perfect for daily and special wear-outs.
• Patiala style of Salwar Kameez is one, which has lots of gathers, and drapes in a elegant mould forming even folds from hip to ankle. This one is mainly for entertainment bash.

Will the Onslaught of Western Wear Affect Salwar Kameez

The doors of liberalisation and globalisation have unlocked many a closed vestiges of a sheltered society and India has been no exception. The thing is whether Indian fabrics will withstand the onslaught of this happening. Why not, has not the Indian civilisation and other aspects survived many such terrific onslaughts in the past with fortitude and élan? They have not only withstood it and come out unscathed, but done so with immense grace and all the more better. Salwar Kameez will continue to have a slot all its own and will only get better, with modern techniques and innovative experimentation. The eternal charm and ethereal beauty of Indian womanhood will continue to be best reflected in Salwar Kameez and this is one aspect that cannot be taken away.

The phenomenon of Salwar Kameez occupies an exalted place in the pages of Indian history and one, which will not be easily replaced. Many phenomenons’ may come and go, but this one will have a slot, which will be a glittering one. Indian History is replete with many such phenomenal impacts and will continue to be so in the years to come by. But the phenomenon of Salwar Kameez, will be an enduring one like that other great phenomenon - the greatest eve mega star of Indian filmdom - Amitabh Bachchan.